Top 5 Machine Features for Sewing Leather

Leather_Sewing_Machine

By Willie Sandry
Willie Sandry is a Freelance Writer, blogger, and crafter who loves having the right tool for the job.  

This article is intended for educational purposes only.  Leather Hide Store does not recommend or endorse any leather sewing products.

You've chosen the perfect leather, consulted The Ultimate Reupholstery Guide, and you're ready to jump into your project.  Whether you are a seasoned leathercrafter, or new to the game, these tips for choosing the right sewing machine can help make your future projects a cinch.

Walking_Foot_Sewing_Machine

1. A Walking Foot.  Sewing leather opens up a number of avenues for crafters and upholstery enthusiasts. The problem is, a home sewing machine doesn’t have the right feeding mechanism to handle leather. A domestic machine is limited to drop feed, which means the material is pulled through by feed dogs alone. Not only can this fail to adequately feed the material through the machine (which causes shortened stitches) but it also tends to advance the layers unevenly (leading to uneven edges and wrinkles sewn into your project). The number one most important feature to sew leather is a walking foot mechanism. Let me be perfectly clear here… I’m not talking about a walking foot attachment for your home sewing machine. A true walking foot is an integral mechanism on a sewing machine that pulls material from both the top and bottom for even feeding. A walking foot has feed dogs below, and alternating presser feet above, to consistently feed leather without issues.

 

variable_speed_servo_motor

2. A Servo Motor. Let’s talk motors for a minute. A home sewing machine has a small variable speed motor that can handle light and medium-weight materials. The fact that it has variable speed is good, but it just doesn’t have the power for sewing leather.

A large industrial machine might have an old-fashioned clutch-style motor. You’ll know it’s a clutch motor if it hums whenever it’s powered on. While clutch motors are certainly powerful, they’ve fallen out of favor because they’re very difficult to control.

The solution to these problems is a variable speed servo motor. With plenty of punching power, while still being easy to control, a modern servo is a crowd favorite. Typically rated at 550 watts (3/4 h.p.) they won’t miss a beat with multiple layers of leather.

 

sewing_speed_reducer

3. Speed Reducer. Have you ever tried to climb a hill on a BMX bike? You know the kind with only one gear? A speed reducer changes that experience to cruising in low gear without breaking a sweat. Basically, a speed reducer is a pair of pulleys and belts that further slow the sewing experience for the ultimate in control. The speed reducer acts as a torque multiplier, which is an added benefit when sewing thick leather. This is especially beneficial when walking over seams and transitions in leather.

Traditionally, a speed reducer was an add-on feature, but some manufacturers are now including it with sewing machine packages designed for leather work.

 

clearance_under_presser_foot

4. Clearance Under Presser Foot. Make sure the foot lifts high enough on your machine to allow clearance for thick assemblies. If the presser foot lifts nice and high, it will let you place and begin sewing leather with minimal effort. Luckily, leather compresses somewhat as it’s sewn, so as long as the layers slide under the presser foot, you should be good to go.

 

adjustable_stitch_length

5. Ability to Equalize Forward and Reverse Stitch Length. Leatherworkers want the forward and reverse stitches to plunk right into the same holes for the cleanest possible look. Every time you terminate a visible seam, you’ll back-tack a few stitches to lock it in place. This is where equal forward and reverse stitch length is so important.

Some machines have this feature, however the adjustment process is so complicated you’d have to be a sewing machine mechanic to get it right. Recently, manufacturers have addressed this common complaint, and solved the issue with easy to adjust stitch length. Simply set forward and reverse stitch length equally and test on a scrap of leather. On this machine, the adjustment is made with two knurled thumbscrews on the front of the machine. The thumbscrews limit travel of the spring-loaded reverse lever as you sew.

 

precise_stitch_control

Precise Stitch-by-Stitch Control. The combination of a speed reducer and variable speed servo motor result in a relaxed experience behind the sewing machine. With the right equipment, sewing leather can be an incredibly rewarding pursuit.

 

simple_leather_coaster

Start Simple. As with any new craft, start with beginner projects that let you experiment with the machine settings. Here, two layers of leather are sewn together with contrasting thread for a rustic drink coaster. Once you’re familiar with your new machine, go wild with more advanced and functional projects!

Check out Willie's Tutorial on Reupholstering a Bar Stool! 

Full Grain Leather: Leather 101

Leather Hides

 

Ah, the great leather debate!  What IS full grain leather?  What is top grain leather?  The real question is “which is better?” and the answer is… it depends.  Depending on your project, and your needs, either leather could be the “better” leather.  They both serve important roles in the leathercraft world, and it is important to know the difference. 

There is some gray area when it comes to these popular terms, and we’re here to break it down for you in our “Leather 101” series.  In this first installment, we are tackling full grain leather- what it is, how it is made, and when to use it. 

What is Full Grain Leather? 

First things first, full grain leather is the unaltered, top cut of a hide. The diagram below illustrates how a cowhide, which initially is very thick, is sliced into two layers - the top cut and the bottom cut, which is called split (suede comes from split leather). This top cut is the most sought after piece of a hide, as it is the strongest, and most durable. The top cut will be finished into either full or top grain leather.

 

 

Leather Splitting Machine

 

 

Full grain leather is just as described, it is the “full grain” of the surface of the hide that is not altered in any way, beyond the removal of hair.  It is not sanded, or “corrected.”  The hide retains the natural markings of the cow- such as scratches, stretch marks and even brands.  Not excessive or unsightly markings, but if the cow had a patch of bug bites, or some small scars, you will see those in your full grain hide. These imperfections are considered “the signature of fine leather.”   

After the removal of hair is complete, full grain hides are off to be made into finished leather.  The first step is tanning the hide.  Upholstery leathers are chrome tanned which makes the leather soft and drapey.  Chrome tanning is done in large drums and dyes are added to the drum to give the leather hide a desired initial color.  However, once this is done the final coloration still has to be applied to the surface - think stain being applied to wood. And, this step is done with aniline dyes.  

Typically, full grain hides will be finished using aniline dyes along with the addition of special oils and waxes. Aniline dyes are translucent allowing you to see not just the color but natural texture and grain of the leather.  Aniline finishes are designed to enhance the natural characteristics and stunning beauty of each hide.  In fact, the hide or cow skin (like our own skin) varies and will absorb the aniline dye differently - creating subtle variations in color that add depth and richness to the finish.  Aniline finishes require full grain hides because the grain, natural characteristics and everything else is visible in the finished product! This is why only 10-15% of hides are suitable to be finished as full grain aniline dyed hides- it is leather in its most natural form. 

The leather grain diagram below illustrates why full grain is most suitable for aniline dying - because the skin surface and its unique characteristics remain intact.  

 

 

 

 

However, full grain hides are not always finished with aniline dyes. When a uniform and very saturated finish color is desired (think lipstick red) a full grain hide will be finished with pigments (leather paints) instead.  Our classic Urban Collection leather is just one example.  While top grain leathers are more commonly finished with pigments than full grain, there is no hard or fast rule here - a leather tannery can apply any type of finish to a full grain hide.  In fact, Leather Hide Store offers full grain leather hides in a large variety of finishes and styles.

 

Characteristics of Full Grain Leather 

Upon close (very close) inspection, hair follicles are still visible on a finished full grain hide.  This signifies no sanding or “correcting” has occurred.

 

Full Grain Leather Hair Follicles

 

This unedited nature of full grain also lends to one of its most defining traits- the character of the leather.  As mentioned previously, those stretch marks, or small scars that are visible in full grain aniline dyed leather are truly the “signature of fine leather.”  The small imperfections and color variations, combined with the richness of the leather, create a vibrant, natural look.  

Above all else, the ability to patina sets this leather apart from the rest.  Over time, full grain aniline leather becomes even more beautiful with use.  Think of a well loved leather sofa, or a well worn pair of leather boots- the leather starts to tell a story.

 

Applications of Full Grain Leather 

Full grain aniline leather offers a unique look and feel that cannot be matched or replicated.  The ability to beautifully age, patina, show wear, and build character over time is extremely desirable in many applications-  think furniture, footwear, or handbags and luggage. 

 

Reupholstered Chairs in Full Grain Leather

These beautiful chairs were reupholstered in our Full Grain Restorations Italia Gold Distressed. 

 

In fact, when finished with oil and waxes, full grain aniline leather also has a great ability to “recover.”  If, for example, you scratch your favorite leather chair you are able to easily buff the majority of the mark away - over time these markings actually enhance the look!  Again, some full grain leather is instead finished with pigments that make it suitable for nearly any application including automotive use. And, there is a large group of full grain leathers that are finished with a dye and pigment blend called semi aniline leathers.  These leathers offer the beauty of aniline leather but the addition of a fine layer of pigment helps balance out the color across the hide.   Our extremely popular Restoration Italia line is a perfect example.    

Full grain aniline leather is meant to be enjoyed, meant to show a little wear, and ultimately meant to stand the test of time.  There is a reason it is a classic- it offers a timeless appearance, and durability, that simply cannot be matched.

A better understanding of full grain leather is a great foundation for your leather education.  Stay tuned for our next installment of Leather 101: What is Top Grain Leather?